Smorgasbord

Momentum Near Merritt

    The Grand Lake neighborhood was ready for something good and spicy. Three weeks after opening, the wait was 15 minutes for a table at Flavors of India, the mellow, new eatery with a moderately priced menu on Lakeshore Avenue. The restaurant presents itself as family friendly, and to this end, fun little stick figures decorate the menu alongside items recommended for kids, such as tandoori chicken ($8.99) and mango lassi ($2.99). The adult with me who likes his curries mild was happy with the lamb tikka masala ($9.99) with its “moderately spiced cream sauce”—among the offerings identified as appropriate for children. If you like your curry to raise a sweat, ask for spicy or extra spicy when you order the lamb cholé ($9.50). The medium-spicy default mode for the dish of garbanzo beans and tomato in a “zesty” gravy was pretty mild. Many dishes are offered with “zesty” gravy, and it would be good if the menu explained how they differ since the waitperson didn’t know. Indian beers are available and also an Indian syrah.
    Flavors of India, 3276 Lakeshore Ave., open daily for lunch 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. and for dinner 4:30–10 p.m.; (510) 268-8975, www.flavors-india.com.


    Across the lake on Grand Avenue, Zza’s TratToria, there since 1988, has launched Zza’s Enoteca along with a bar menu of Italian-style small plates—not inexpensive, but there are exotic choices such as quail paella ($14) and rabbit terrine ($12). The wine bar is geared to neighborhood singles and adult members of families that dine at Zza’s, says co-owner Regina Passalaque, who added that 50 wines would routinely be served by the glass, with prices ranging from $6.50 up to $13 (for a Mary Elke Anderson Valley Chardonnay).
    Zza’s Enoteca, 552 Grand Ave., open 5 p.m.–10 p.m. Sun.–Thu., 5 p.m.–midnight Fri.–Sat.; (510) 839-9124, www.zzasonline.com.